48 hours in Milan
Milan probably isn't at the top of most peoples list as a must place to visit for a short break away, unless your a fashionista or there for business, I don't think it really appeals to many people.
I was looking for cheap deals away through British Airways, and Milan popped up, so with a little last minute planning, I was off to see what this city had to offer in 48 hours.
Flights: London Heathrow to Milan Malpensa airport with British Airways
Travel: Get the train from the airport to Milano Centrale Stazione, it’s a fair way out so a taxi will cost quite a bit. Plus the station itself is a thing of beauty in itself, apparently Grand Central in New York is based on it.
Hotel; Ibis Milano Centro, it’s just over 5 minute walk from the station, but a 15 minute walk into the historic centre. It was cheap and cheerful, rooms were small but breakfast was included - perfect for a short stay.
DAY 1
AM - Duomo
LUNCH - Luini and Gelato Guisto
PM - Churches of Milan
DINNER - Ratana restaurant
DAY 2
AM - Pinacoteca di Brera
LUNCH - PECK food emporium
PM - A free afternoon
DINNER - Bicerin wine bar
DAY 1
AM
I like to get my bearings when first stepping foot in a new city, so we took a wander down to the historic centre of Milan, through the elite fashion districts and down the little alleys. We ended at the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, one of the worlds oldest shopping malls and named after the first king of the kingdom of Italy. Home of many top designer shops and a few restaurants/cafes, we took a seat for a quick espresso (albeit an expensive one!), a look at the map and of course a bit of people watching.
Walking through the mall you get to the main square - Piazza del Duomo, the home of Milans major attraction; the cathedral. We queued up straight away at the ticket office, and after working out the various tickets and prices, we went for Duomo Pass B - €11, which includes admission to the terrace (roof) on foot, the Duomo, Museum, Church of Saint Gottardo and the archaeological area (note it’s more expensive if you take the lift!).
We headed straight for the stairs to the roof, and after 250 steps we were at the first platform. It’s an amazing chance to really appreciate the structure, decoration and intricate detail which went in to the design of this complex building. You’ll be in awe by the maze of openwork pinnacles, spires and delicate flying buttresses and apparently it has the most statues than any other building in the world; 3400 to be precise, along with 135 gargoyles and 700 figures. It’s amazing to see them all at such close proximity, which is such a rarity on the other gothic structures around the world.
After another flight of stairs you get onto the main roof, with a slight sense of vertigo it gives you a chance to see the whole of Milan from a birds eye view - and on a clear day the snow capped Alps too. Also from here you can see the famous Madonnina; the gold colour statue of Mary that marks the cathedrals highest spire.
So onto the Duomo itself, as we make our way back down to ground level. Just a quick note that the Duomo can be fairly strict on dress code, it’s best to cover shoulders and legs on entry, so remember to pack a cardigan or scarf on the super hot days!
The Duomo is dedicated to the St Mary of the Nativity (Santa Maris Nascente) and is a gothic cathedral which took nearly 6 centuries to complete, it’s the largest church in Italy and the 3rd largest in the word.
The first cathedral on this site was completed by 355 (and is actually similar to the plan of the church which was recently discovered beneath Tower Hill, London), an adjoining basilica built in 836 and an old baptistry dating back to 355 (which you can visit underneath!). The Duomo and basilica were destroyed by fire in 1075, and was rebuilt as the Duomo we know today.
Construction began in 1386 and was right on trend with the European architecture at the time. To explain its French Rayonnant Gothic style, we look to the engineer who was employed, who was indeed a Frenchman, this style wasn't really typical for Italy at this time. The date of completion was January the 6th 1965, but in fact there are still come blocks of incomplete statues today.
You can either purchase audio guides by the entrance, or go on one of their (or other tour operators) guided tours, or as I did - look up a few points of interest before your visit. A few things to look out for are;
The Sundial; Right by the entrance you will see the sundial on the floor. A ray of sunlight from a hole on the opposite wall strikes the clock, which shines the bronze tongue on summer solstice (June 21st) and the meridian on winter solstice (December 21st). Although placed here in 1786 by astronomers from the Accademia di Brera, it’s surprisingly accurate and still used to regulate clocks around the city today!
A nail from Jesus’ crucifixion; Look above the arch above the altar and you will see a red light on the cross. This is where (supposidly) one of the nails from Jesus’ crucifixion is, and every year on the Saturday closest to September the 14th, the archbishop of Milan ascends in a wooden basket decorated with angels to retrieve it.
Lunch
We stayed close to the Duomo for lunch as I was on the hunt for a place which came highly recommended, and after finding a little more information on it, was told to follow the queue…and the pigeons. Make your way down Via Santa Radegonda and you’ll start to see hoards of people sat on the pavement eating something out of paper bags…walk a little closer and join the queue.
You’ll then surprisingly very quickly find yourself at the hectic counter of Luini for one of their famous Panzerotti; a beautifully soft, pillowy fried dough parcel filled with tomato and mozzarella. There maybe a large daunting menu, don't be distracted; its must be fried and it must have tomato and mozzarella inside, so you only really need to know 3 important Italian words here - fritto, pomodoro, mozzarella. Nothing else needs to be said about this, just make sure you go.
We then made our way back to our hotel, and as I said previously, it is a bit of a way out of the centre, but I had read up on a highly recommended little shop for gelato so decided that ice cream was worth the walk. Gelato Guisto was our port of call which is found on Via Saint Gregiorio. I'd highly recommend that you plan a little detour whilst arriving or leaving Milan via the central train station, this tiny little place is definitely worth it.
The flavours are ever changing, and you will always find something a little on the unusual side, but the “cannella, pistachio and amarena" was absolutely delicious.
PM
The agenda for the afternoon was to plan our own little walking tour around the churches of Milan, and we found some real beautiful ones off the beaten track. Of course this was interspersed with the odd Aperol Spritz and a local beer along the way…
Dinner
After much background research on reviews, blogs, recommendations I came to the conclusion that Milan wasn’t really well known for its great restaurants. There are a few michelin star ones, but I was after classic Milano specialities, home cooking and big portions, but I guess most of the visitors aren't really into the same thing! I read many mentions on Ratana, on Via Gaetano de Castillia, and it seemed a nice mix on tradition dishes, alongside more adventure flavour combinations.
It stands out on a pretty quiet street (but still very central) in a very cute building. We were sat quickly, and as we looked over the menu were given a small appetiser of Pappa al Pomodoro - a tomato and bread based soup from Tuscany. Wine was chosen pretty swiftly, as I was intrigued by a sparkling riesling from Umbria, it was a bit different but packed with intensity.
For our starters we shared the fresh crescenza cheese, vignola cherries and oregano oil, and the tomato risotto with basil crumble and stracciatella cream. The risotto was absolutely amazing, we went for this as the dish this restaurant is best known for is the Milanese risotto with Ossobuco, but as I was with a vegetarian, I thought this would be a worthy substitute and it really was!
Highlights for the mains were the vitello tonnato, one of my favourite Italian dishes (slices of veal with tuna underneath and fried capers) which was perfect after the heavy risotto to start. Sadly we were both too full for desserts (too much of their sourdough) but they did all sound delicious.
Day 2
AM
The next morning was spent looking around the Pinacoteca di Brera, which turned out to be one of my favourite art galleries I had visited. It’s not to big to get overwhelmed by, and it's small enough to take everything in; perfect for the novices amongst you to the full blown experts. An amazing collection of fine art from Bramante to Caravaggio, and it's considered to be Lombardy's finest art collections. It’s all laid out in a really simple floor plan, so you can chronologically see how art changes and develops from the 13th to the 20th century.
It originally began as a collection of paintings for students of the Accademia di Belle Arte, with paintings being withheld from churches and monasteries by the Napoleonic regime. A few examples to look out for; Andrea Mantegna's Dead Christ (an amazing example of foreshortening), Pietà by Giovanni Bellini, the amazingly realistic Christ at the Column by Donato Bramante, Piero della Francesca's Virgin and Child with Saints, and one of my favourites Caravaggio's atmospheric Supper at Emmaus. Examples of Titian, Tintoretto and Veronese are all here too, as well as 2 art restoration rooms which are pretty interesting.
Lunch
We decided to get lunch from PECK, after a recommendation on this “Italian temple of gastronomical delights”. Situated on Via Spadari, it also has a bar and restaurant right around the corner if your after something more substantial or a sit down meal. It’s a real food emporium, and we were able to put together a little picnic of local cheeses, cured meats, salads, fresh seasonal fruits and a few cakes and sweet treats. I would also recommend purchasing a gifts for those back home from here too!
PM
I always thing it’s a good idea to keep your last afternoon free whilst on a short break, just incase something pops up of interest. On this afternoon we browsed around the boutique fashion shops along the most elite shopping streets in Milan (just window shopping of course!) which gave us a real insight to how the other half live and the amazing world of fashion. Another suggestion would be to go and see The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci, unfortunately we didn't plan far enough ahead to get tickets (at the face value) but if you are a little more organised than me I would definitely do this. There is a copy in Cambridge though which is a little most close to home, and which I hope to visit in the next few weeks.
Dinner
After more research I found a cool little wine bar just round from our hotel. It was our last night, and we were up bright and early the next morning, so didn't want to go anywhere too far out. Queue Bicerin on Via Panful Castaldi. It was exactly what I expected from a wine bar in Milan, stylish surroundings with a great, friendly Italian approach to food and drink. We were given the wine list, and the lovely host Lorenzo went through every wine by the glass and some tasting notes on each of them, even taking a seat next to us whilst he was doing so! Already feeling pretty comfortable, we started with a glass of Franciacorta (Italian sparkling wine from Lombardy) with a selection of nibbles, whilst I delved into the wine list to decide on a bottle of something nice.
After finishing our aperitif a little to quickly, we ordered the cheese board to share which had a selection starting from the North and traveling down to the South of Italy, and the Baccala (whipped salt cod).
For the wine, I went for a Riesling from Trentino, Alto Adige, a perfect bottle to finish a great 48 hours in Milan…
I was looking for cheap deals away through British Airways, and Milan popped up, so with a little last minute planning, I was off to see what this city had to offer in 48 hours.
Flights: London Heathrow to Milan Malpensa airport with British Airways
Travel: Get the train from the airport to Milano Centrale Stazione, it’s a fair way out so a taxi will cost quite a bit. Plus the station itself is a thing of beauty in itself, apparently Grand Central in New York is based on it.
Hotel; Ibis Milano Centro, it’s just over 5 minute walk from the station, but a 15 minute walk into the historic centre. It was cheap and cheerful, rooms were small but breakfast was included - perfect for a short stay.
DAY 1
AM - Duomo
LUNCH - Luini and Gelato Guisto
PM - Churches of Milan
DINNER - Ratana restaurant
DAY 2
AM - Pinacoteca di Brera
LUNCH - PECK food emporium
PM - A free afternoon
DINNER - Bicerin wine bar
DAY 1
AM
I like to get my bearings when first stepping foot in a new city, so we took a wander down to the historic centre of Milan, through the elite fashion districts and down the little alleys. We ended at the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, one of the worlds oldest shopping malls and named after the first king of the kingdom of Italy. Home of many top designer shops and a few restaurants/cafes, we took a seat for a quick espresso (albeit an expensive one!), a look at the map and of course a bit of people watching.
Walking through the mall you get to the main square - Piazza del Duomo, the home of Milans major attraction; the cathedral. We queued up straight away at the ticket office, and after working out the various tickets and prices, we went for Duomo Pass B - €11, which includes admission to the terrace (roof) on foot, the Duomo, Museum, Church of Saint Gottardo and the archaeological area (note it’s more expensive if you take the lift!).
We headed straight for the stairs to the roof, and after 250 steps we were at the first platform. It’s an amazing chance to really appreciate the structure, decoration and intricate detail which went in to the design of this complex building. You’ll be in awe by the maze of openwork pinnacles, spires and delicate flying buttresses and apparently it has the most statues than any other building in the world; 3400 to be precise, along with 135 gargoyles and 700 figures. It’s amazing to see them all at such close proximity, which is such a rarity on the other gothic structures around the world.
After another flight of stairs you get onto the main roof, with a slight sense of vertigo it gives you a chance to see the whole of Milan from a birds eye view - and on a clear day the snow capped Alps too. Also from here you can see the famous Madonnina; the gold colour statue of Mary that marks the cathedrals highest spire.
So onto the Duomo itself, as we make our way back down to ground level. Just a quick note that the Duomo can be fairly strict on dress code, it’s best to cover shoulders and legs on entry, so remember to pack a cardigan or scarf on the super hot days!
The Duomo is dedicated to the St Mary of the Nativity (Santa Maris Nascente) and is a gothic cathedral which took nearly 6 centuries to complete, it’s the largest church in Italy and the 3rd largest in the word.
The first cathedral on this site was completed by 355 (and is actually similar to the plan of the church which was recently discovered beneath Tower Hill, London), an adjoining basilica built in 836 and an old baptistry dating back to 355 (which you can visit underneath!). The Duomo and basilica were destroyed by fire in 1075, and was rebuilt as the Duomo we know today.
Construction began in 1386 and was right on trend with the European architecture at the time. To explain its French Rayonnant Gothic style, we look to the engineer who was employed, who was indeed a Frenchman, this style wasn't really typical for Italy at this time. The date of completion was January the 6th 1965, but in fact there are still come blocks of incomplete statues today.
You can either purchase audio guides by the entrance, or go on one of their (or other tour operators) guided tours, or as I did - look up a few points of interest before your visit. A few things to look out for are;
The Sundial; Right by the entrance you will see the sundial on the floor. A ray of sunlight from a hole on the opposite wall strikes the clock, which shines the bronze tongue on summer solstice (June 21st) and the meridian on winter solstice (December 21st). Although placed here in 1786 by astronomers from the Accademia di Brera, it’s surprisingly accurate and still used to regulate clocks around the city today!
A nail from Jesus’ crucifixion; Look above the arch above the altar and you will see a red light on the cross. This is where (supposidly) one of the nails from Jesus’ crucifixion is, and every year on the Saturday closest to September the 14th, the archbishop of Milan ascends in a wooden basket decorated with angels to retrieve it.
Lunch
We stayed close to the Duomo for lunch as I was on the hunt for a place which came highly recommended, and after finding a little more information on it, was told to follow the queue…and the pigeons. Make your way down Via Santa Radegonda and you’ll start to see hoards of people sat on the pavement eating something out of paper bags…walk a little closer and join the queue.
You’ll then surprisingly very quickly find yourself at the hectic counter of Luini for one of their famous Panzerotti; a beautifully soft, pillowy fried dough parcel filled with tomato and mozzarella. There maybe a large daunting menu, don't be distracted; its must be fried and it must have tomato and mozzarella inside, so you only really need to know 3 important Italian words here - fritto, pomodoro, mozzarella. Nothing else needs to be said about this, just make sure you go.
We then made our way back to our hotel, and as I said previously, it is a bit of a way out of the centre, but I had read up on a highly recommended little shop for gelato so decided that ice cream was worth the walk. Gelato Guisto was our port of call which is found on Via Saint Gregiorio. I'd highly recommend that you plan a little detour whilst arriving or leaving Milan via the central train station, this tiny little place is definitely worth it.
The flavours are ever changing, and you will always find something a little on the unusual side, but the “cannella, pistachio and amarena" was absolutely delicious.
PM
The agenda for the afternoon was to plan our own little walking tour around the churches of Milan, and we found some real beautiful ones off the beaten track. Of course this was interspersed with the odd Aperol Spritz and a local beer along the way…
Dinner
After much background research on reviews, blogs, recommendations I came to the conclusion that Milan wasn’t really well known for its great restaurants. There are a few michelin star ones, but I was after classic Milano specialities, home cooking and big portions, but I guess most of the visitors aren't really into the same thing! I read many mentions on Ratana, on Via Gaetano de Castillia, and it seemed a nice mix on tradition dishes, alongside more adventure flavour combinations.
It stands out on a pretty quiet street (but still very central) in a very cute building. We were sat quickly, and as we looked over the menu were given a small appetiser of Pappa al Pomodoro - a tomato and bread based soup from Tuscany. Wine was chosen pretty swiftly, as I was intrigued by a sparkling riesling from Umbria, it was a bit different but packed with intensity.
For our starters we shared the fresh crescenza cheese, vignola cherries and oregano oil, and the tomato risotto with basil crumble and stracciatella cream. The risotto was absolutely amazing, we went for this as the dish this restaurant is best known for is the Milanese risotto with Ossobuco, but as I was with a vegetarian, I thought this would be a worthy substitute and it really was!
Highlights for the mains were the vitello tonnato, one of my favourite Italian dishes (slices of veal with tuna underneath and fried capers) which was perfect after the heavy risotto to start. Sadly we were both too full for desserts (too much of their sourdough) but they did all sound delicious.
Day 2
AM
The next morning was spent looking around the Pinacoteca di Brera, which turned out to be one of my favourite art galleries I had visited. It’s not to big to get overwhelmed by, and it's small enough to take everything in; perfect for the novices amongst you to the full blown experts. An amazing collection of fine art from Bramante to Caravaggio, and it's considered to be Lombardy's finest art collections. It’s all laid out in a really simple floor plan, so you can chronologically see how art changes and develops from the 13th to the 20th century.
It originally began as a collection of paintings for students of the Accademia di Belle Arte, with paintings being withheld from churches and monasteries by the Napoleonic regime. A few examples to look out for; Andrea Mantegna's Dead Christ (an amazing example of foreshortening), Pietà by Giovanni Bellini, the amazingly realistic Christ at the Column by Donato Bramante, Piero della Francesca's Virgin and Child with Saints, and one of my favourites Caravaggio's atmospheric Supper at Emmaus. Examples of Titian, Tintoretto and Veronese are all here too, as well as 2 art restoration rooms which are pretty interesting.
Lunch
We decided to get lunch from PECK, after a recommendation on this “Italian temple of gastronomical delights”. Situated on Via Spadari, it also has a bar and restaurant right around the corner if your after something more substantial or a sit down meal. It’s a real food emporium, and we were able to put together a little picnic of local cheeses, cured meats, salads, fresh seasonal fruits and a few cakes and sweet treats. I would also recommend purchasing a gifts for those back home from here too!
PM
I always thing it’s a good idea to keep your last afternoon free whilst on a short break, just incase something pops up of interest. On this afternoon we browsed around the boutique fashion shops along the most elite shopping streets in Milan (just window shopping of course!) which gave us a real insight to how the other half live and the amazing world of fashion. Another suggestion would be to go and see The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci, unfortunately we didn't plan far enough ahead to get tickets (at the face value) but if you are a little more organised than me I would definitely do this. There is a copy in Cambridge though which is a little most close to home, and which I hope to visit in the next few weeks.
Dinner
After more research I found a cool little wine bar just round from our hotel. It was our last night, and we were up bright and early the next morning, so didn't want to go anywhere too far out. Queue Bicerin on Via Panful Castaldi. It was exactly what I expected from a wine bar in Milan, stylish surroundings with a great, friendly Italian approach to food and drink. We were given the wine list, and the lovely host Lorenzo went through every wine by the glass and some tasting notes on each of them, even taking a seat next to us whilst he was doing so! Already feeling pretty comfortable, we started with a glass of Franciacorta (Italian sparkling wine from Lombardy) with a selection of nibbles, whilst I delved into the wine list to decide on a bottle of something nice.
After finishing our aperitif a little to quickly, we ordered the cheese board to share which had a selection starting from the North and traveling down to the South of Italy, and the Baccala (whipped salt cod).
For the wine, I went for a Riesling from Trentino, Alto Adige, a perfect bottle to finish a great 48 hours in Milan…
Comments
Post a Comment