A day trip to Arezzo
Florence can be a little claustrophobic..the tall buildings and narrow streets can make me feel a little trapped at times- I may be from London, but it's a city full of green spaces and huge parks which I think I may have taken for granted!
I've started to take Wednesdays off work, and as a kind of New Years resolution I've decided to get out of Florence on this day. It's funny as after a day outside the city, I rush back and feel so glad to be back here, it's definitely home for here in Florence :)
Arezzo was my destination of choice for my first day off in the new year, and on a cold albeit beautifully sunny day, I spent the day exploring this wonderfully sleepy town. I had already done my research and seen that the fresco cycle of the Legend of The True Cross in Pieve di San Francesco was under going refurbishment, which was kind of the real reason I wanted to visit Arezzo, but as there seemed to be such a lot to do in Arezzo, and I could always plan a return.
Trains go about every hour from Florences station (Santa Maria Novella) - with a fast train (going to Rome) which takes just over an hour, or a local stopping service which takes 1 hour 45 mins, and at €8.50 it's an absolute bargain compared to the UK!
Piazza Grande
However you arrive into Arezzo, I suggest you wind your way down the little streets to find yourself at the sloping main square of Piazza Grande. Surrounded by restaurants and cafes if your in need of a quick espresso, or a leisurely lunch - look out for the Loggia designed by Georgia Vasari (1573), the striking Palazzo della Fraternità (1375) in the top left corner and the apse of the Pieve di Santa Maria della Pieve - whose facade on the opposite side is far more interesting (see below). Piazza Grande is also home to the famous jousting tournament that takes place here in June and September, and also an antiques fair on the first Saturday and Sunday of the month - and considered one of the best in Tuscany.
Santa Maria della Pieve
This bizarre looking church was constructed in the 12th century (Arezzo's oldest), with the facade, apse and interior completed in the 13th century, and the "tower of the hundred holes" added in the 14th century. The Romanesque arcaded facade, with its numerous individually carved columns (try to find the one which is a statue!).
Casa Vasari
I've heard you either love or hate Vasari, and I'm one who absolutely loves him. Ok he twisted the truth here, embellished it a bit there - but his book on "The Lives of the Most Excellent Painters, Sculptors and Architects" makes an excellent read!
Vasari was born in Arezzo, and here you will find the family home which Vasari himself designed and built. He also decorated the wall frescoes which remain in an immaculate condition today despite dating back to 1542 - 1568. You'll also find a great collection of paintings by Vasari, his assistants and other Tuscan artists - a great place if you like Mannerism!
San Domenico
I'm big fan of Cimabue, so I would definitely recommend a visit to this church just a few moments from Casa Vasari. The crucifix dates back to 1265, and you can also see work by Spinello Aretino here.
Museum of Medieval and Modern Art
A stunning collection of paintings and pieces of earthenware - spend most of your time on the first floor to admire medieval and Renaissance paintings by Giorgio Vasari, Spinello Aretino, Luca Signorelli and Bartolomeo della Gatta.
The Duomo / Cattedrale di San Donato
The impressive Gothic Cathedral looms over the town of Arezzo. Its construction began at the end of the 13th century and continued right up until the beginning of the 16th. The unfinished facade was to a design of Dante Viviani at the beginning of the 20th century, with the campanile built half way through the 19th century.
A few interesting bits to look out for in the interior are;
- The beautiful stain glass windows by Guillaume de Marcillat (16th century).
- The large marble arch dedicated to Saint Donato.
- Wooden choir of the Grand Chapel by Vasari (1554)
- The hexagonal baptismal font, with reliefs by Donatello's workshop, and also a Baptism of Christ
by Donatello himself.
- Fresco of Mary Maddalena by Piero della Francesco (1460) and the monument of Guido Tarlati
(1330 - according to some designed by Giotto) are both situated in the left hand aisle.
- The Chapel of Madonna del Conforto dating back to the 18th century is most impressive, and also
contains terracottas by Andrea Della Robbia.
Behind the church you will find the Medici Fortress, which was built by Cosimo I. The beautiful garden is a great place to catch your breathe, and take a few photos of the spanning view over the Tuscan landscape. The large statue in the centre is of Francesco Petrarca - more about him below.
Casa Petrarca
A few steps from the Duomo is the apparent house of Petrarca - it was built in the 16th century on the remains of the medieval building believed to have been Francesco Petrarca's birthplace (1304). But first - who was Petrarca?
Or Petrarch for us English folk. I knew nothing of this man until an inspiring lecture by Alexandra Lawrence through the British Institute in Florence, on his great works, along with Giovanni Boccaccio and Dante Alighieri. Petrarca was an Italian scholar and poet in Renaissance Italy. His rediscovery of Cicero's letters is thought to have ignited the 14th century Renaissance, and he is considered one of the earlier humanists. He is best known for his Italian poetry, especially the Canzoniere (Songbook). But the most interesting aspect of his life, is when he gave up his role as a priest, due to his sighting of a woman called "Laura" on April 6th 1327, which awoke a lasting passion in him. The ever romantic went on to pour his heart out by writing his famous Rime sparse (scattered rhymes) about her, and much of his life revolved around his love for her (although its not known who she actually is). Anyway - his "house" is home to some 20,000 books, amongst them are editions of Petrarca's works - definitely worth a visit if your interested in Italian literature.
Roman Amphitheatre
Situated pretty close to the train station is the 1st century Roman Amphitheatre, built for 8,000 spectators. Worth a look if your looking to kill a bit of time before your train home!
Pieve di San Francesco
Sadly it was closed for refurbishment the time I visited Arezzo (reopens March 2017) but it's definitely something I will be returning for. A fresco cycle by Piero della Francesca in the Cappella Maggiore of San Francesco, narrating the stories of the True Cross (the one which Christ was crucified on). It's based upon stories by Jacobus de Voragines, a 13th century text that tells of the story of the wood of Christ's Cross - if your interested I would definitely recommend reading up on it, as its really interesting!
Opposite the church is a pretty famous caffe I would recommend to visit too - il Caffe dei Constanti which opened in 1809! Another place to grab an espresso, or to have a rest to consult the guide book again.
FOOD
I visited Arezzo at the start of January so many restaurants and food places were shut - I ate at Antica Bottega Toscana on Cross Italia - one of the roads leading off Piazza Grande as it happened to be one of the only places actually open! I had a really tasty lunch here, and it was full of locals. Other places I've been recommended or heard great things about include;
- La Torre di Gnicche; great wine list and typical Tuscan dishes
- La Bottega di Gnicche; great place for a panini or a plate of local meats and cheeses
- Johnny Bruschetta; His place in Florence comes highly recommended, just look at photos online!
- La Cantina del DOC; Tuscan home cooking
I've started to take Wednesdays off work, and as a kind of New Years resolution I've decided to get out of Florence on this day. It's funny as after a day outside the city, I rush back and feel so glad to be back here, it's definitely home for here in Florence :)
Arezzo was my destination of choice for my first day off in the new year, and on a cold albeit beautifully sunny day, I spent the day exploring this wonderfully sleepy town. I had already done my research and seen that the fresco cycle of the Legend of The True Cross in Pieve di San Francesco was under going refurbishment, which was kind of the real reason I wanted to visit Arezzo, but as there seemed to be such a lot to do in Arezzo, and I could always plan a return.
Trains go about every hour from Florences station (Santa Maria Novella) - with a fast train (going to Rome) which takes just over an hour, or a local stopping service which takes 1 hour 45 mins, and at €8.50 it's an absolute bargain compared to the UK!
Piazza Grande
However you arrive into Arezzo, I suggest you wind your way down the little streets to find yourself at the sloping main square of Piazza Grande. Surrounded by restaurants and cafes if your in need of a quick espresso, or a leisurely lunch - look out for the Loggia designed by Georgia Vasari (1573), the striking Palazzo della Fraternità (1375) in the top left corner and the apse of the Pieve di Santa Maria della Pieve - whose facade on the opposite side is far more interesting (see below). Piazza Grande is also home to the famous jousting tournament that takes place here in June and September, and also an antiques fair on the first Saturday and Sunday of the month - and considered one of the best in Tuscany.
Santa Maria della Pieve
This bizarre looking church was constructed in the 12th century (Arezzo's oldest), with the facade, apse and interior completed in the 13th century, and the "tower of the hundred holes" added in the 14th century. The Romanesque arcaded facade, with its numerous individually carved columns (try to find the one which is a statue!).
Casa Vasari
I've heard you either love or hate Vasari, and I'm one who absolutely loves him. Ok he twisted the truth here, embellished it a bit there - but his book on "The Lives of the Most Excellent Painters, Sculptors and Architects" makes an excellent read!
Vasari was born in Arezzo, and here you will find the family home which Vasari himself designed and built. He also decorated the wall frescoes which remain in an immaculate condition today despite dating back to 1542 - 1568. You'll also find a great collection of paintings by Vasari, his assistants and other Tuscan artists - a great place if you like Mannerism!
San Domenico
I'm big fan of Cimabue, so I would definitely recommend a visit to this church just a few moments from Casa Vasari. The crucifix dates back to 1265, and you can also see work by Spinello Aretino here.
Museum of Medieval and Modern Art
A stunning collection of paintings and pieces of earthenware - spend most of your time on the first floor to admire medieval and Renaissance paintings by Giorgio Vasari, Spinello Aretino, Luca Signorelli and Bartolomeo della Gatta.
The Duomo / Cattedrale di San Donato
The impressive Gothic Cathedral looms over the town of Arezzo. Its construction began at the end of the 13th century and continued right up until the beginning of the 16th. The unfinished facade was to a design of Dante Viviani at the beginning of the 20th century, with the campanile built half way through the 19th century.
A few interesting bits to look out for in the interior are;
- The beautiful stain glass windows by Guillaume de Marcillat (16th century).
- The large marble arch dedicated to Saint Donato.
- Wooden choir of the Grand Chapel by Vasari (1554)
- The hexagonal baptismal font, with reliefs by Donatello's workshop, and also a Baptism of Christ
by Donatello himself.
- Fresco of Mary Maddalena by Piero della Francesco (1460) and the monument of Guido Tarlati
(1330 - according to some designed by Giotto) are both situated in the left hand aisle.
- The Chapel of Madonna del Conforto dating back to the 18th century is most impressive, and also
contains terracottas by Andrea Della Robbia.
Behind the church you will find the Medici Fortress, which was built by Cosimo I. The beautiful garden is a great place to catch your breathe, and take a few photos of the spanning view over the Tuscan landscape. The large statue in the centre is of Francesco Petrarca - more about him below.
Casa Petrarca
A few steps from the Duomo is the apparent house of Petrarca - it was built in the 16th century on the remains of the medieval building believed to have been Francesco Petrarca's birthplace (1304). But first - who was Petrarca?
Or Petrarch for us English folk. I knew nothing of this man until an inspiring lecture by Alexandra Lawrence through the British Institute in Florence, on his great works, along with Giovanni Boccaccio and Dante Alighieri. Petrarca was an Italian scholar and poet in Renaissance Italy. His rediscovery of Cicero's letters is thought to have ignited the 14th century Renaissance, and he is considered one of the earlier humanists. He is best known for his Italian poetry, especially the Canzoniere (Songbook). But the most interesting aspect of his life, is when he gave up his role as a priest, due to his sighting of a woman called "Laura" on April 6th 1327, which awoke a lasting passion in him. The ever romantic went on to pour his heart out by writing his famous Rime sparse (scattered rhymes) about her, and much of his life revolved around his love for her (although its not known who she actually is). Anyway - his "house" is home to some 20,000 books, amongst them are editions of Petrarca's works - definitely worth a visit if your interested in Italian literature.
Roman Amphitheatre
Situated pretty close to the train station is the 1st century Roman Amphitheatre, built for 8,000 spectators. Worth a look if your looking to kill a bit of time before your train home!
Pieve di San Francesco
Sadly it was closed for refurbishment the time I visited Arezzo (reopens March 2017) but it's definitely something I will be returning for. A fresco cycle by Piero della Francesca in the Cappella Maggiore of San Francesco, narrating the stories of the True Cross (the one which Christ was crucified on). It's based upon stories by Jacobus de Voragines, a 13th century text that tells of the story of the wood of Christ's Cross - if your interested I would definitely recommend reading up on it, as its really interesting!
Opposite the church is a pretty famous caffe I would recommend to visit too - il Caffe dei Constanti which opened in 1809! Another place to grab an espresso, or to have a rest to consult the guide book again.
FOOD
I visited Arezzo at the start of January so many restaurants and food places were shut - I ate at Antica Bottega Toscana on Cross Italia - one of the roads leading off Piazza Grande as it happened to be one of the only places actually open! I had a really tasty lunch here, and it was full of locals. Other places I've been recommended or heard great things about include;
- La Torre di Gnicche; great wine list and typical Tuscan dishes
- La Bottega di Gnicche; great place for a panini or a plate of local meats and cheeses
- Johnny Bruschetta; His place in Florence comes highly recommended, just look at photos online!
- La Cantina del DOC; Tuscan home cooking
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